More animals from Galapagos

Some more animals from Galapagos., the land iguanas from Floreana,  giant tortoises from Santa Cruz and Galapagos sea lions,  which seem to be everywhere there.

Marine iguanas

As the world's only swimming lizard (not sure why they don't count turtles), the marine iguanas are weirdly amazing.  On our last day, we went walking out to Tortuga Bay and saw a huge colony of giant seaguanas, as I was calling them.  They usually camouflage with the black volcanic rocks of the beach that you really have to watch your step.

A few odd things:  they sneeze a lot, to get salt water out of their systems, they have huge tails and swim with that, like little aligators (which are lizards that also swim, not sure where they get this "only swimming lizard" thing from), and are vegetarian,  diving down for sea kelp to eat.  I was lucky enough to snorkel with them on a few occasions.   Never got bored of those guys.

Not quite with the 21st century

This image explains how connectivity is jn Galapagos.   And really, many people would prefer that it be much, much less connected than it is.

Isla Isabella and a recovery day

It can really catch up to you, even when you are on vacation.   Some days, you need a slow start.  We went to a mangrove swamp yesterday,  populated with small sharks, fish, rays and sea turtles, then made out way south from baltra to Puerto Ayora.   On the way, we saw the massive land tortoises of the highlands.

There are a lot of microclimates in the Galapagos and the misty, green landscape of the highlands offers a lot more for the more than 100 year old beasties.  We visited a farm and for $3, we got boots and entrance to the park, where we saw more than a dozen turtles that were simply huge.  Worth stopping by to see.

Today, we'll take another speed boat to Isabella.   I've already taken some motion sickness tablets.   Normally,  it's just not a problem,  but I am not trying to win a tough guy contest here,  no nausea and added perk is that they make me a little drowsy so I can just sleep while we bang on the water like some cheap carnival ride.  Every so often, you'll get a glimpse of something beautiful,  like a bird or the islands, then it's back to bangbangbang for the duration.

Isabella's main town puerto villamil is pretty much an outpost, but it has  been expanding.

Sally lightfoot crabs

I love these little guys.  So brightly colored,  they store water and pass it through their gills so they can stay out of water for extended periods of time. 

Also, they are supposed to be extremely tasty.  Everyone says that they don't eat them anymore, but they all talk about them longingly.  

"They were so delicious, " our guide said.  "...and everywhere,, really.   But never again will we eat them."

Coconut radio

From the moment we arrived in Galapagos,  things were very confusing.  We had paid for a last-minute ticket and a guide would meet us at the airport.   

An itinerary would have been very helpful.   What we had was an email, on company letterhead,  that basically only told us that we had a ticket on the boat and that a guide would meet us at the airport.

A guide met us when our flight arrived.  He would take us to Puerto Ayora and then to the Darwin Center, where they raise the massive Galapagos tortoises.   It's not a long walk from the hotel, in a straight line along the coast.   You would need to be creative to get lost.  We had a guide.

After some talk of turtles,  we tried to determine what would happen the next day when we were due to meet our boat.

"We were told by the office in Quito that we would meet our boat in Floreana.  Does anyone meet their boat in Floreana?"

"No, but it's possible.  You should go to Floreana," said our guide who claimed to have 35 years experience on these islands, in this town, even.

"Floreana has no port.  The biggest port in Galapagos is here in Puerto Ayora.   Are we meeting our boat in Floreana?

"Yes, it's possible.   I will check with the agency."

"But are we meeting our boat in Floreana?"

We waited to hear back while the island's Coconut Radio went into full effect.  

"You have dinner included in your package.   No hard drinks."

"Um, okay.  Dinner is nice, but where do we meet our boat?"

"Still not sure,waiting to hear back.  Someone will come to your hotel tonight, 7pm."

A guide showed up at our hotel by bicycle right at 7pm to escort us to a restaurant that was 300 meters from our hotel in a pretty straight line along the main strip.  We told her we could make it by ourselves, where do we meet our boat?

"Tell them you have a reservation,  no hard drinks.   Someone bwill be here at 7:50 to meet the boat."

"So we meet the boat here?"

"Someone will meet you here to take you to the boat at 7:50am."

A delicious dinner goes by, then breakfast.   then 8am.  Eventually,  a taxi shows up with another guide.

"We're meeting our boat, the Tip Top III?"

"Yes,in Floreana. "

"Does that happen? "

"It could," he said.Similar responses from the man at the docks, the man piloting the boat, everyone. 

"The agency paid for a one way trip to Floreana.   There is a hotel there,  you can ask them."

The lady at the hotel had no Iidea who we were or why we were there.  "No one gets picked up here.  It's very strange, " she said.

We sat down, had a beer and enjoyed the views.  After about 45 minutes,  she returned. 

"Your boat is in Puerto Ayora.   It leaves tonight.  You need to go back," she said,  shrugging. 

The port at Floreana. 

Hiking, snorkeling, etc.

This morning, we awoke at a mooring off Santa Fe island, home to a large sea lion colony, a unique land iguana and several bird species.  These islands really feel desertlike in this season, completely dried out.  The beach was loaded with a very loud bunch of sea lions barking while frigate birds saoled by and blue footed boobies dived after fish.  A very amazing start to the day.   After our morning hike, we had some coffee and returned for snorkeling.

One of  the big downsides to our trip to Floreana was that we did not get a chance to rent wetsuits.   The water was in the high 60's, I'd guess.  Definitely enough to cool you off.  Absolutely freezing my ___ off for 40 minutes, but so worth it as small fish and dozens of sea lions twirled and played in the water with us, nipping at our swim fins and zooming in super-close, spinning upsidebdown to get a look at us and chasing fish. 

After we clambered off the zodiacs, a quick shower and dry clothes was all I needed.  We sailed on as frigates landed on the decks, waiting for lunch as we waited for ours.

Chinese hat island

It is strange to be one of 3 passengers on the boat, it makes for some odd mealtimes and yet a lot of peaceful time along.  More importantly,  it means that we quickly and easily get to sites, often having them mostly to ourselves until some other larger group shows up, which is invariably 6 times our size. 

Until then, we explore without any distractions or with a bunch of pale Australians in the shot. 

This morning,  we arrived near Chinese Hat , had a nice breakfast and then hiked the island,  taking in the ubiquitous sea lions,  Sally lightfoot crabs and marine iguanas.   I'm looking forward to seeing these swim as we snorkel noff the same island.  

The island and the ones nearby are stark and volcanic,  black landscapes.   As the island opposite,  Isla Santiago,  expanded massively a little over a hundred years ago, no vegetation has really had a chance to establish itself.   There is a small island of vegetation and candelabra cactus surrounded by bare black basaltic lava.  On the land, nothing lives  except the occasional marine iguana and a very rare Galapagos penguin.   Under the water, it's very different:  alive with all kinds of fish taking advantage nof the many small nooks the lava created as it cooled.

Three aboard the Tip Top III

After all of the chaos of the day, which I keep hearing is very normal for the islands,  we found our guide and then came to the boat, where we were told it would just be the 3 of us.  I first thought that they would just cancel the trip, but some law requires that they go on their assigned routes each week, no matter what.  so the boat launches with very few people,  the crew seem to think it is light, but not so unusual. 

Right now, I am relaxing after dinner on the second level rear deck of the boat.  There are 3 levels.   I have to activity seek out anyone else on board.  It's amazing,  I feel like I own this boat.

Somehow,  we have basically wound up with a private yacht with our own nature guide for excursions for 4 days.  There is one other passenger other than my wife and I.  We have a nature guide, captain,  cook and first mate.  We are outnumbered by the crew.

I'm planning to sleep on deck a bit,  watching the small lighthouse sweep the harbor while the breezes and the small waves lap at the ship.  I hope to awake near midnight,  when our yacht sets sail for a nearby island,  leaving the few lights of Galapagos' main town behind.

Tomorrow, we have a pretty full agenda of hikes and snorkeling.

Three aboard the Tip Top III

After all of the chaos of the day, which I keep hearing is very normal for the islands,  we found our guide and then came to the boat, where we were told it would just be the 3 of us.  I first thought that they would just cancel the trip, but some law requires that they go on their assigned routes each week, no matter what.  so the boat launches with very few people,  the crew seem to think it is light, but not so unusual. 

Right now, I am relaxing after dinner on the second level rear deck of the boat.  There are 3 levels.   I have to activity seek out anyone else on board.  It's amazing,  I feel like I own this boat.

Somehow,  we have basically wound up with a private yacht with our own nature guide for excursions for 4 days.  There is one other passenger other than my wife and I.  We have a nature guide, captain,  cook and first mate.  We are outnumbered by the crew.

I'm planning to sleep on deck a bit,  watching the small lighthouse sweep the harbor while the breezes and the small waves lap at the ship.  I hope to awake near midnight,  when our yacht sets sail for a nearby island,  leaving the few lights of Galapagos' main town behind.

Tomorrow, we have a pretty full agenda of hikes and snorkeling.

Island time

So far, this has been quite a day.  Confusion between the Quito office and the islands now has us out in floreana waiting ti return to the same port we just left to meet our boat.  This wasn't some kind of language confusion,  no one seems to know.   Considering that we've spoken to some 10 people about this, you think someone would be able to say what's happening.

It seems like too many cooks are confusing the stew, at least.  Everyone has been "helping" us, telling us where to go (Which is very odd, to have a tour guide to a 15-street town) and noone seems to have been in touch with the actual boat that we will get on.  So we went, as instructed by a variety of people,  to floreana,  to meet our boat, onky findjng out now that the boat wiuld not be there.

The "45 minute" ride, which was really 90 minutes, featured one of the passengers vomiting repeatedly while at one point trying to nurse her infant,  categorically one of the most awkward things I have ever witnessed.  It is a high-powered cabin cruiser with three 200hp engines converted into a 24 passengers ferry.  Speedy, but not cozy.

So, we spent the afternoon with a few sodas, clambering over the volcanic rocks to look at bright red crabs, rainbow colored iguanas and the black swimming iguanas.   Only the crabs seemed to care that we came close.  It was amazing to see yet another group of amazing creatures.  I lost my footing on the rocks and almost fell on an iguana,  which surely would have upset the thing - and me, no doubt.

The Tip Top Hotel on Floreana (possibly the only hotel on Floreana?) has been in touch with the office of Tip Top and no one, it seems,  has spoken with the folks at their office in Quito.  

The lady at the floreana hotel told us that we can meet up with our boat back in the harbor that we just left this morning.  I had to talk our way onto the return launch because it was crowded.  After we randomly stopped to let people snorkel for 40 minutes,  we got under way.  While at this stop, the captain confronted me about the fee to return,  $60 for the pair of us.

"You pay me, then get reimbursement from the agency," he said.

"Okay, but that will never happen.   I will never get that money back.  How much do you need?" I asked.   These negotiations often go better when you start agreeably.  "I realize you're doing us a favor,  but the agency really messed up."

This happens a lot here, it seems.   I asked everyone today - are you sure?   All big boats leave from Ayora, are you sure we're in Floreana? 

Yes, this is very unusual,  but they said Floreana.  

"They only paid one way," the captain stated, annoyed at the situation himself.   "The boat is in Puerto Ayora.  You're right, their mistake,  they should pay." 

I should have asked for the mask and fins then.  The rest of the ride was uneventful.

Island time

So far, this has been quite a day.  Confusion between the Quito office and the islands now has us out in floreana waiting ti return to the same port we just left to meet our boat.  This wasn't some kind of language confusion,  no one seems to know.   Considering that we've spoken to some 10 people about this, you think someone would be able to say what's happening.

It seems like too many cooks are confusing the stew, at least.  Everyone has been "helping" us, telling us where to go (Which is very odd, to have a tour guide to a 15-street town) and noone seems to have been in touch with the actual boat that we will get on.  So we went, as instructed by a variety of people,  to floreana,  to meet our boat, onky findjng out now that the boat wiuld not be there.

The "45 minute" ride, which was really 90 minutes, featured one of the passengers vomiting repeatedly while at one point trying to nurse her infant,  categorically one of the most awkward things I have ever witnessed.  It is a high-powered cabin cruiser with three 200hp engines converted into a 24 passengers ferry.  Speedy, but not cozy.

So, we spent the afternoon with a few sodas, clambering over the volcanic rocks to look at bright red crabs, rainbow colored iguanas and the black swimming iguanas.   Only the crabs seemed to care that we came close.  It was amazing to see yet another group of amazing creatures.  I lost my footing on the rocks and almost fell on an iguana,  which surely would have upset the thing - and me, no doubt.

The Tip Top Hotel on Floreana (possibly the only hotel on Floreana?) has been in touch with the office of Tip Top and no one, it seems,  has spoken with the folks at their office in Quito.  

The lady at the floreana hotel told us that we can meet up with our boat back in the harbor that we just left this morning.  I had to talk our way onto the return launch because it was crowded.  After we randomly stopped to let people snorkel for 40 minutes,  we got under way.  While at this stop, the captain confronted me about the fee to return,  $60 for the pair of us.

"You pay me, then get reimbursement from the agency," he said.

"Okay, but that will never happen.   I will never get that money back.  How much do you need?" I asked.   These negotiations often go better when you start agreeably.  "I realize you're doing us a favor,  but the agency really messed up."

This happens a lot here, it seems.   I asked everyone today - are you sure?   All big boats leave from Ayora, are you sure we're in Floreana? 

Yes, this is very unusual,  but they said Floreana.  

"They only paid one way," the captain stated, annoyed at the situation himself.   "The boat is in Puerto Ayora.  You're right, their mistake,  they should pay." 

I should have asked for the mask and fins then.  The rest of the ride was uneventful.

Last day in Quito for a while

We leave for the Galapagos tomorrow.   We could have very easily spent $6000 on cruises, but we got a last-minute first class boat for 5 days to go to some of the islands and then we'll spend the rest of our time doing land-based excursions or some other small island-hopping.  We start tomorrow with a nice hotel near Puerto Arroyo,  I believe.   Then Friday,  we get picked up to meet the boat, the tip top iii

Galapagos:  we have a 5-day cruise on a 104 foot (22 foot beam) cruiser with two 17 foot zodiac launches, it including snorkeling,  wetsuits and kayaking,  a fullsized bed!, private bathroom and shower, all food and soft drinks (no drinky drinks,  so you know how that can add up, although you do get wine with dinner), a night in a first class hotel and airport transfer.

Not bad, really.  I am pleased and we got about 65% off on a last minute trip.  I am also pleased because it's very water-based and a lot of the  wildlife is in the water, obviously.   Personally,  I will be giddy to swim with any of the following:  hammerhead sharks, sea lions, dolphins, big weird swimming iguanas, nothing at all but the Galapagos waters, 12-15 foot wide manta rays, fish.

Then we'll stomp around the islands on some small independent trips, which I think we'll like.  I have this odd fantasy about drinking rum out of a paper bag, eating some kind of Beast on a Stick and staring at weird wildlife lounging around and not caring whether or not I am there at all.

This is ourblast night staying at a lovely compound in the suburbs of Quito that might be well placed in almost any 80's drug movie.  Gerrit, the expat Dutchman that owns the place, keeps meticulous care of the place (or has his various servants do so), massive gardens, bird life is flush, more hummingbirds and several bird calls I can't readily identify.  It's a good distance out of the city, in a very elite area, behind a guarded gate and then 10 foot high walls.  It's quite secluded and each one way cab ride has cost me more than any of my other hotel stays.  however,  a good excursion to the local shopping mall, which would not be  out of place on the north shore of long island, might be needed to secure a few comforts. 

It's really got to be said, Gerrit's been an amazing host.  I would happily spend more time here, if it fit our budget.

Right now, we're cutting weight as they limit all gear brought over to less than 23 kilos per person.  Massive rain boots and other heavy gear can stay in storage here at the compound.   We'll pick it up on our way back into Quito.